Bhanu Athaiya: Redefining Indian Cinema through Iconic Costume Design

Bhanu Athaiya, a name synonymous with Indian cinema, stands as an iconic figure who seamlessly bridged the realms of art and film through her exceptional work as a costume designer. Not only was she the first Indian to receive an Academy Award, but she also played a pivotal role in the Progressive Artists’ Group, leaving an indelible mark on the creative landscape.

Early Artistic Roots

Born Bhanumati Rajopadhye on April 28, 1929, in Kolhapur, Maharashtra, Bhanu Athaiya inherited her artistic flair from her father, Annasaheb, a self-taught artist and photographer in the cinematic world. Despite his early passing when she was 11, her artistic journey took root. She honed her skills at the renowned Sir J.J. School of Art in Mumbai, winning the Usha Deshmukh Gold Medal in 1951 for her artwork titled ‘Lady in Repose.’

Transition to Costume Design

While a part of the Progressive Artists’ Group and exhibiting alongside luminaries like M.F. Husain and F.N. Souza, Athaiya’s trajectory shifted unexpectedly towards fashion. Initially a freelance fashion illustrator for magazines like “Eve’s Weekly” and “Fashion & Beauty,” her natural talent for designing clothes emerged. This marked the transition from painting to the captivating world of costume design.

Her journey in this field commenced with Guru Dutt’s films, notably starting with “C.I.D.” in 1956. Over the next 50 years, she collaborated with eminent Indian filmmakers, including Yash Chopra, B.R. Chopra, Raj Kapoor, and Ashutosh Gowariker.

Pinnacle Achievement: Academy Award

Bhanu Athaiya reached the zenith of her career with the epic film “Gandhi” in 1982. Her outstanding costume designs not only secured her the Academy Award for Best Costume Design but also carved her name in history as the first Indian to achieve this prestigious honour. Additionally, she received a BAFTA Award nomination for her exceptional contributions.

Her illustrious career boasts two National Film Awards, received in 1991 and 2002. In March 2010, she shared her expertise with the world by authoring the book “The Art of Costume Design.”

Personal Life and Legacy

Married to lyricist Satyendra Athaiya in the 1950s, she adopted her new name in 1959. Unfortunately, Satyendra passed away in 2004. Diagnosed with a brain tumour in 2012, Bhanu Athaiya spent her last years bedridden. She departed from this world on October 15, 2020, at the age of 91.

Bhanu Athaiya’s extraordinary journey, from the canvas of art to the cinematic stage, encapsulates a life devoted to creativity, innovation, and the pursuit of excellence. Her legacy in both art and costume design remains an enduring source of inspiration for generations of artists and filmmakers worldwide.